In 1982 I took a boat down the Yangtze from Chungking
to Shanghai, through the fabled gorges. Really marvellous.
Much of the built-up areas were oppressively industrial & ugly,
the air heavy with pollution, dripping with humidity ~
these pagodas meant more than a glimpse through time.
My plan had been to go to Urumchi, so I could get to the caves
of the thousand Buddhas, but almost immediately revised it,
it was just so difficult as a single traveller without the language,
on a budget. Besides, I really wanted to visit at the
time of Sir Aurel Stein. Read many of his accounts of the different
explorations, with incredibly detailed maps.
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